TikaWeeks #31/2023: Sri Lanka update
Posted by John on 2nd August 2023
Sri Lanka is synonymous with tea and has a long-standing reputation for producing some of the world's finest, with a plantation history dating back to 1862 and an estimated export value of US$2.6bn. The humble beverage has become the island’s pride worldwide, accounting for nearly 14% of the country’s total export earnings and ranking among its most valuable and prized products. This year commemorates the 200th anniversary of the arrival of Tamils of Indian origin in Sri Lanka and their history is inextricably entwined with the story of tea on the island.
The legacy of Ceylon tea began in 1824 when the British introduced tea plants from China to Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), eventually leading to commercial cultivation by James Taylor in 1867. However, the growth of the tea industry heavily relied on the labour of Indian Tamils, who faced a history of exploitation and marginalisation, leaving them among the most disadvantaged segments of Sri Lanka’s population.
The following passage is taken from a recent article in Sri Lanka’s Daily Mirror – Ceylon’s tea legacy and harsh reality of Indian labour
In 1833, the Colebrook-Cameron Commission abolished the Rajakariya system, a compulsory free labour service to the state. The Sinhalese labourers refused to take up the strenuous employment in the coffee estates; which presented a labour problem to British planters. Consequently, the demand for cheap labour led to thousands of South Indian labourers making the annual journey to work in the coffee estates in central and southern parts of Ceylon.
The tea industry in Sri Lanka thrived on the labour of Indian Tamils, whose ancestors migrated to the country in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The British abolished slavery in 1833, leading to the establishment of indentured labour systems that bound workers to plantations under harsh conditions. Often burdened with debt from recruitment, the Indian Tamil workers arrived in Ceylon seeking better circumstances, but faced difficult lives on the plantations. They lived in subpar housing with limited access to sanitation, water, medical facilities, and education. Long hours, strict quotas, and harsh overseers made their work burdensome and exploitative. Little improvement has been observed over the years, despite their representatives holding cabinet portfolios in successive governments. Even after Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948 Indian Tamil plantation workers were denied citizenship and the right to vote. Labelled as “temporary immigrants” and facing discrimination due to lack of proper documentation many of them were rendered stateless. Though some agreements between India and Sri Lanka resulted in repatriation and citizenship for a few, it wasn’t until the 1970s that the Citizenship Act was revised to grant citizenship to most Indian Tamils. However, their living conditions remained neglected, perpetuating their marginalization. Estate housing for workers has remained unchanged since the late 19th century, consisting of small, shared houses known as the ‘line’ system. Originally intended as temporary shelters, these houses have persisted over the years without improvements. Families living in such close quarters have had to cope with distorted family dynamics and the lack of ownership documentation prevents them from claiming their homes. The absence of addresses for individual houses causes administrative issues, problems during voting, and delays in receiving important correspondence. Workers face numerous challenges in their daily lives due to poorly maintained roads, limited access to education and healthcare facilities, and irregular public transportation services. Students often have to travel to main towns for further studies, while inadequate hospitals add to their hardships. Additionally, the lack of timely communication hinders their access to important information, impacting their lives in various ways.
While the legacy of Ceylon tea is celebrated worldwide, the tale of Indian slavery and the continued struggles of Indian Tamil workers should not be overlooked. These labourers played a crucial role in the tea industry’s success, yet they remain among the most impoverished and marginalized segments of Sri Lanka’s population. Descendants of South Indian labourers brought here in the 19th and 20th centuries to work on the first British plantations, the ‘up-country Tamils’ or ‘Indian Tamils’ now constitute 4.2% of the Sri Lankan population.
Unfortunately, over the years, they have faced sidelining by the country to which they dedicate their hard work. The Ceylon Citizenship Act of 1948, driven by Sinhala nationalism, imposed strict identity terms that rendered many of them stateless, despite having lived on the island for decades. The ‘line’ system remains unchanged since the late 19th century. Workers reside in rows of small houses, each no bigger than a single room, with shared roofs. Originally intended as temporary shelters, these houses were never improved over the years, leading to uncomfortably close living quarters and disrupting family dynamics, especially when children marry and remain with their parents.
Furthermore, the estate worker doesn’t own the house even though it is small. Since the plantation land is entirely owned by the estate, the worker is not provided with a deed or permit to prove ownership. All mail must be addressed to the estate’s head office and is distributed at the management’s convenience; resulting in delayed and lost correspondence. Walking from their line house to the designated work area, often located on different hills, becomes challenging due to the poorly-maintained roads. Moreover, accessing essential services, such as schools and hospitals, becomes time-consuming and difficult due to the irregular and limited bus services available to estates.
Estate schools typically extend only up to Grade 5 or Grade 9 and students wishing to pursue further education must travel to the nearest city. This lack of educational opportunities affects children with talent in sports or arts, as they have fewer avenues for progression compared to their urban counterparts. Another significant aspect affecting the living conditions of tea estate workers is the ownership of estates as private lands. Since these estates do not fall under the Pradeshiya Sabha Act, local authorities lack the power to provide addresses in these areas. Moreover, the roads within the estates are also considered the property of the estate, making their maintenance the responsibility of the estate management.
In the early 1970s, Sri Lanka decided to nationalise tea estates that were previously owned by British companies. In 1976, the Sri Lanka Tea Board was founded, along with other organizations like the Janatha Estate Development Board (JEDB), Sri Lanka State Plantation Corporation (SLSPC), and the Tea Small Holding Development Authority (TSHDA).
Following nationalization, a slight improvement was observed under JEDB and SLSPC: however, despite these developments, the plight of the tea estate workers and the need for improvement in their living and working conditions remained an ongoing concern. The establishment of various oversight bodies and the expansion of exports did not fully address the social and infrastructural challenges faced by these workers. Efforts to enhance their living conditions, access to education, healthcare, a decent wage and overall welfare require continued attention and support from all stakeholders involved.
The Pekoe Trail – Stage 16: Ella to Demodara
Ella has become a favourite haunt of visitors to Sri Lanka's highlands, with its mountain forests, tea plantations and relatively cool climate. Starting at Ella railway station and ending in Demodera, this stage is one of the shortest sections of The Pekoe Trail as well as one of the most popular. This very straightforward, 8.7-km stage takes less than 3 hours to complete at a relaxed pace.
As you leave Ella along the Passara Road, look for a track that forks to the left and continue onto the train tracks. Follow the railway line through Ella Forest Reserve for approximately 2 km at which point you will see the famous Nine Arches Bridge, a major tourist attraction. This is the island’s longest and highest viaduct, over 24 metres high and 90 metres long. The bridge was built during the First World War of stone, brick and cement as steel was requisitioned for the war effort by the British colonial power at the time.
Cross the bridge and walk on the railway line for another 100 metres or so before taking the track on the right. The next 50 metres is a stepped climb past village houses and onto a road. The next half a kilometre is a gradual ascent towards the main junction with the Newburgh tea factory straight ahead. At the junction, dog-leg left and begin a 2 km descent along a village road with a few guesthouses and village homes on each side. At the bottom, it zig-zags down towards chena cultivations below and the tea estate opposite.
Entering Demodara Tea Estate, continue on a tea trail until the 4.5-km point and take the second trail on your left. Look back and you will see Nine Arches Bridge again in the distance. Follow this track for half a kilometre until reaching a small Buddhist shrine where you re-join the main tea trail running through the Demodara Estate, which loops around the attractive plantation for approximately 3 km, passing a lake on your left as you descend towards Demodara.
Once you reach a small tarmac road, take the track on the left that leads to Nine Skies Bungalow. As you approach the village the main street runs down to the left but the trail dog-legs down 30 metres of steps onto the railway track a few hundred metres from the end of the stage at Demodara railway station, which is known for its spiral railway line, popularly known as the 'Demodara Loop'. The railway line passes under itself, going around the loop and emerging from a tunnel after 900 metres.
Categories: Culture, Sightseeing, Sri Lanka
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